Wednesday, October 7th, 2009
Simmer down, it’s not how it sounds… I found a lot of passion on the Route over the past few days. Passion for Route 66, that is.
Ron "Tattoo Man" Jones has 8o Route 66 tattoos
Let’s start with Galena, Kansas. A few days ago, I crossed into this somewhat abandoned town and was greeted with a lovely restored ‘40s-era KanOTex gas station run by “4 Women on the Route“. Four Galena ladies bought and restored the station, and they plan to continue the restoration efforts along the town’s stretch of Route 66.
the truck that inspired the Tow Mater character in "Cars"
If you’ve seen the animated film “Cars”, you’ll recognize the character “Tow Mater” right away. The film’s character was inspired by a rusty old mining boom truck found right here. Tow Mater’s character often drives backwards – a habit that was also inspired from this place, by a local man who has double-jointed ankles and can literally turn his feet in the opposite direction!
When I walked into 4 Women on the Route, a firecracker of a woman named Melba was in the middle of going through her large scrapbook and giving her spirited speech about the place and its history to a group of travelers. Her energy was so intense, I got exhausted just watching her.
Melba Riggs gives her spiel at "4 Women on the Route"
Melba Riggs, the self-proclaimed “Mouth of the South”, is one of the four women behind this restoration. She specifically asks that everyone sign the guest book, because the record of how many people come through (and from where they come) helps them get their grants to keep the place open. They have a gift shop, a snack bar (voted as having the best Rueben sandwich around), and of course the famous Tow Mater parked right out front – although, they can’t use that name since it belongs to Pixar, so they refer to him as “Tow Tater”. They were taking part in the day’s fundraising Poker Run and had another big event happening later from 5-8pm. Clearly she spends a lot of her time working to bring this part of Kansas back to life. When a magazine was quoted as saying there was nothing in Galena, she wrote the magazine, describing the projects the four women were up to and what there was happening in Galena. The magazine included them in a subsequent article, and she had that highlighted in her thick scrap book.
bikers dropping in to draw cards during the fundraising Poker Run
The Poker Run, organized by Route 66 Vintage Iron Motorcycle Museum, was something I had never heard of before that impressed me. Bikers ride from location to location on the Route, and draw a card at each place to add to their hand. There were prizes for the best and worst hands at the end of the day, and proceeds went to support Bikers Against Child Abuse. There was a whole network of volunteers staffing each location to make this event happen, and the vibe was really fun as bikers dropped in to draw their cards and have them recorded, and then hit the road again.
Ron Jones with his 1956 Chevy outside Afton Station
Moving down the road into Oklahoma, I dropped into Afton Station (another stop on the Poker Run) to meet with Ron “Tattoo Man” Jones. Ron heard about my project and said he would be honored to meet me and have me photograph his tattoos. I was the one honored to meet with Ron, and the others who keep Afton Station alive. Afton is another pseudo-ghost town where someone restored an old gas station and has made it into a significant stop along the Route. This one is owned and run by Laurel and David Kane, who came all the way from Ohio to restore the 1930s D-X station and turn it into the “unofficial rest stop”-slash-museum it is today. Dan’s collection of vintage Packards and other vehicles are on display, as well as a large collection of Route 66 memorabilia and vintage postcards. Afton Station was named
Laurel Kane with her award for Afton Station: Route 66 Business of the Year
“Business of the Year” at the recent Will Rogers Awards in Flagstaff, AZ, and the two Rons who help out (Ron McCoy and Ron Jones) were also awarded “Person of the Year” for all they do for Route 66. Talking to Laurel, the more I learned about what it took to keep the place open, the more amazed I became at the level of dedication and commitment of these people. These are folks who simply love the Route and its history, and just want to keep it alive for others to enjoy.
One man whose passion for the Route is more than just skin deep is Ron Jones. Aside from the many volunteer hours he puts in at Afton Station, Ron has 81 tattoos, and 80 of them are Route 66-related. He has icons from all over the Route covering his body, and he is proud to show them. 
Another thing he is happy to show is his gorgeous 1956 Chevy, which proudly displays decals indicating his service to America. Ron received a purple heart from his time on Hamburger Hill in Vietnam. During the short time we spoke about his experiences over there, it was clear that beneath the colorful icons decorating his skin, the man carries around with him some pretty dark memories of that time. About five years ago he was diagnosed with PTSD, and that’s helped him open up and talk more about his wartime experiences. I don’t think I’ve ever spoken to a Vietnam vet about serving in the war before (again, being Canadian, it’s a rarity for me). I was deeply saddened when, at one point, Ron got overwhelmed and some heavy feelings bubbled up in him when I asked about his purple heart. I can’t even imagine how it must be to carry those horrific images around in his head for the rest of his life. I found myself feeling patriotic – an odd sensation, since I am not in my home country. Thank you Ron, for your service – in all the ways you give it!
Jerry McClanahan, artist and author of "E-Z 66 Guide for Travelers"
The following day, I caught up with Jerry McClanahan in Chandler, OK. Jerry is the author of the invaluable guide I am using to follow the Route. Ron and the gang at Afton Station said I should look him up, and Jerry was happy to meet one of his many faithful readers and sign my copy of his E-Z Route 66 Guide for Travelers. (I also got to give him a heads up about my blog entry that cursed his “STAY AHEAD” directions!)
Even though it was after supper on a Sunday, Jerry opened his gallery for me and showed me his lovely Route 66 paintings. Jerry also gave me author Jim Ross’s number so that I could look him up in Arcadia, but when I tried to catch up with him, he wasn’t around.
All this to say: I am amazed at how passionate these people are about Route 66, and how open they are about meeting others who share their interest. They spend a large portion of their personal time (and money, in many cases) working to promote and preserve Route 66. I have this sensation of being on this long network of people, stretching from Chicago to LA, who know and support each other in their efforts, regardless of which state they’re in. When you mention someone further back or ahead on the Route, they nod knowingly, and tell you who you should contact when you get further along.
Peggy and Steve Burner
Another amazing act of generosity: I have been taken in by a lovely couple in Oklahoma City named Steve and Peggy Burner. Fellow road-trip-loving Jeep owners (and Aliner-owner-wannabes), they are enjoying following my trip and wanted to host me. (See now, here’s an example: as I work on the computer here, Peggy just brought me in some leftover turkey dinner to eat, since I told her that Canadian Thanksgiving is this Monday and I won’t be celebrating since I am away from home – how thoughtful is THAT??!) They have been unbelievably hospitable and have made it a point to offer me meals at famous local diners, a comfortable bed and shower to use for as long as I want. All this and, points out Peggy, I don’t even have to leave a bra here! (new readers: see previous post on Devil’s Elbow) They took me to a cool new joint called Pops, this incongruous futuristic place on a countrified stretch of Route 66, with hundreds of types of pop from all over the world. I chose the Mint Julep pop. (there were no Jager Bomb pops – see previous Devil’s Elbow post again…) The timing is perfect for this sponaneous “home stay”, because a local paper and TV station have asked for interviews on my project. The Burners’ home is making a great short-term base to allow me to do these interviews.
Gots to get ready for the media. The stories should be posted on the Oklahoman and KFOR websites – I’ll be sure to post links.
with the Burners, outside Pops
By the way – I wrote my mother to reassure her that, after places like Devil’s Elbow and Hell’s Half Acre, I was now in Oklahoma City being well fed and taken care of by a good Christian family. Her reply? “Praise the Lord and pass the biscuits!!”
