Thursday, October 29th, 2009
truck parked at Cool Springs gas station (note spelling of "C66L")
First off, I want to thank Christina Nellemann for featuring me in her recent post on the Tiny House Blog. That blog was one of my favorite sites when I started looking into nomadism, so I am really honored to be on there. You can read the blog post here. Thanks so much, Christina! (In other media, I also did a phone interview on the Phoenix 12 News on Friday morning, but I’m still waiting for a link for that. I’ll post it once I get it. Those who know me know that a 6am interview on live television is not exactly my version of how to start my day… but I was really happy to be on there. I was really unhappy, though, that my alarm didn’t go off, and that their call was what woke me up – 3 minutes before I went to air!! I’m still not sure what I said… maybe that’s why they never posted it online…! 
)
So an old friend from back home who knew of my obsession with a group called the Cocteau Twins back in the 80s posted a link on here to one of my favorite Cocteau Twins songs called “Heaven or Las Vegas”. Because I experienced both since the last post, I felt it was an appropriate title for this one.
Let’s start with the Las Vegas bit. Vegas is actually not on Route 66 at all and required a 2-hour detour. The reason? Well, Campfire in a Can, of course!
campfire peeps: Lisa, Nicole and David
The company is based in Vegas and the owners seemed to really want to meet me and I quite wanted to meet them too, so off I went. What a great bunch!
Turns out the president and vice-president of the company, Nicole and David respectively, are both Canadian – but it got even better. David is actually from Newfoundland: a fellow Maritimer! AND his mother used to live in Moncton, mere blocks from where my own mother lives, from what we can tell. It was quite surreal having dinner on “the Strip” and sharing stories about Moncton, I have to say. I was glad to be able to thank them in person for the campfire, and to tell them what an amazing product they have (it really is great, you should get one). The other half – or, third? – of the core group, Lisa, was there too. Poor thing was sick so she kept her distance. Feel better soon Lisa! Anyway they are SO my kind of people, all about adventure and fun, so it was an awesome time. Thanks for the great dinner, you guys. Later I met up with a Detroit transplant, my buddy Jerrry who now lives down there, and we got caught up over a beer and the wedding episode of The Office. A rare hour in front of the TV with a fine IPA. It was great. Thanks for the hospitality (and shower!), Jer!
Now, heaven.
the view from Cadiz Summit (in Kodak b&w infrared film)
My “happy place” is definitely the desert, specifically southeastern California’s Mojave Desert. That’s what I drove through today, so I am literally in heaven. This is the only bit of Route 66 I have traveled before and photographed on a few occasions, so I can actually share infrared film images from this bit, since I already have them processed and scanned. I could go on and on about this place… which reminds me: I will be done this trip very soon, but I don’t want to stop the blog nor am I done writing about this trip or Route 66. I only share bits of what I think/experience/learn along the way on here, so if you care to continue reading after I arrive in Santa Monica, then I have lots more to say.
Back to heaven. There’s a new contender for happy place on the scene, though. I have to say that I was NOT prepared for the Black Mountains in Arizona. Yeah, I had read that it was a winding road and that it was pretty… but I did not know it was going to scare the crap out of me (more wet ass references, I know, I’m sorry), or that it was going to be absolutely heartbreakingly beautiful when I came through at sunset.
restored gas station today at Cool Springs, AZ
Just before heading into the mountains, I passed Cool Springs, where there isn’t much more than a restored gas station. This particular one interested me because Larry Ellison, a blog reader, had sent me photos of it before it had been restored. The ruins looked almost exactly like some I photographed in Oklahoma weeks ago. Larry’s photo of the ruins was taken awhile ago, though, and since then a man from Chicago purchased and restored the place into a museum and gift shop – but you can still
gas station remains, before (photo: Larry Ellison)
see the original pillars and wall remnants of the building. Also of note, apparently the film “Universal Soldier” was partly filmed here before the restoration. For the movie, they built a new gas station on the ruins, then demolished it during filming. I made a quick stop there and was told by the manager that there was a place to camp right at the top of Sitgreaves Pass. I can just pull over and stay the night up there. When I told him I had to be in Vegas for a meeting that night and couldn’t stop, this is what he said: “if I were you, I would call them in Vegas and tell them you won’t make it and that you’ll see them tomorrow.
gas station ruins in Oklahoma
This is the most beautiful part of all Route 66. I know, because I drive it every day.” I said thanks for the info but no, I can’t… He said, “well, if you can’t, you can’t”, and hopped on his motorcycle and drove off up the mountains (he lives on the other side in Golden Shores, so this ridiculously gorgeous and treacherous road is his daily commute, by bike!).
Since I was heading west, I was on the outside of all the switchbacks on the narrow road winding up through the mountains, with a looong drop on my right and no guard rails in sight. I had to really focus on driving within the narrow lanes and not get distracted by the gorgeous vistas unfolding at every turn. I found myself sticking my camera out the window to randomly take shots on automatic because I needed to have something recorded from this amazing stretch. Eventually, I crested the mountains at Sitgreaves Pass and pulled over.
view from Sitgreave's Pass, AZ
You know what? Dude with the bike was right.
The beauty almost made me cry. All I wanted to do was park and stay there and look at it. For as long as the sun would permit me to see, that’s all I wanted to do. I wished the sun would stop moving, and I wished I didn’t have a timeline. I know without a doubt that I must return here.
After crossing through Sitgreaves Pass and weaving back down the mountains again, you arrive in Oatman, which is totally something out of a storybook. It’s pretty touristy but it looks like a real trip. Seriously Western town (western with a capital W, you will notice), nestled in the jagged peaks, complete with staged shootouts and wild burros who wander into town – and into the shops! – to get fed carrots. By the time I pulled in, it was after 5pm and the streets were pretty much rolled up. I only caught a glimpse of two burros, since they all take off after 5pm too; the burros know when their shift is done.
at the graffitied ruins at Cadiz Summit
…and sadly, I also know when my shift is done. I am bee-lining it to Santa Monica now, which means that this incredible journey is quickly coming to an end.
And I don’t want it to.
Tags: black mountains, california, campfire in a can, cocteau twins, cool springs, desert, end, heaven, las vegas, mojave, oatman, phoenix news, santa monica, sitgreaves pass, tiny house blog
October 29th, 2009 at 2:01 am
I found your blog on google and read a few of your other posts. I just added you to my Google News Reader. Keep up the good work. Look forward to reading more from you in the future.
October 29th, 2009 at 2:34 am
gorgeous photos sandi
October 29th, 2009 at 2:35 am
Thanks, Jeff and doc!
Scott: check your email, I sent you an email today re: jobby stuff, let me know! thx!
October 29th, 2009 at 4:21 am
I’m glad to read you have traveled so far, so safely, but overall this has been disappointing. You never got beyond your smug Canuck attitude to appreciate the importance of R66 to those who needed to travel the original road to a better life in their difficult times, their reasons for doing so, and the modern allegory it represents to those of your host country who are without jobs. Because of this, I’ve found your writings to be quite shallow, but your pictures are professionally good. With your ME, ME, ME attitude I assume you are ready to go back to Canada as soon as you put your toe in the Pacific.
Good riddance.
October 29th, 2009 at 8:10 am
Even though I confess to worrying about you being all alone on this trek (can’t help it, it’s a mother thing), I am sorry it is over because you loved it so much. Finding something you love this much is a real gem most people never experience. Looking so forward to having a phone conversation when you get home to a land line. Love you thi-i-i-i-i-i-i-i-i-i-i-i-i-i-s much!!! I’ve just used “much” much too much.
October 29th, 2009 at 8:25 am
Well done, Sandi. We’re proud, proud, proud of you. lol
October 29th, 2009 at 8:54 am
love seeing you going where i just was … awesome … shooting the same things awesomer …
don’t beeline too much to the end, some coolness right up until san bernardino … then you can beeline … from then on it is crap traffic …
btw, did you happen to notice the license plate on the c66l truck ???
no doubt, that is one amazing stretch of road … i saw plenty of wild burros on the way up as well as a herd of bighorn sheep … you are so right, rolling into oatman is like a scene out of a storybook … i stopped in the middle of town and was greeted by a jack sticking his head into my car – all the way into – to look for food … quite rightly scared the crap outta me …
October 29th, 2009 at 11:10 am
” Vegas is actually not on Route 66 at all and required a 2-hour detour. The reason? Well, Campfire in a Can, of course” <—–I ******* love this Sandi!
Detouring for the possibility of partnership and community.
This is the future.
October 29th, 2009 at 11:48 am
NotCanuck: well, I’m sorry I didn’t take on writing about Route 66 in the way that you wanted me to. There are many ways to write about something like this, and getting into what you wanted to read simply wasn’t the tack I chose. Some people told me they wanted to hear more about my feelings. Some wanted to see more about where I camped. Some wanted to know about the trailer. You wanted to get into the significance and meaning of the road more. I just tried to relay my personal experiences along with some tidbits about the Route, and some nice eye candy. This was never intended to be just an educational or a historical document. And believe me, I get the modern allegory: I am one of those people who lost their jobs too.
October 29th, 2009 at 12:17 pm
Note to NotCanuck,
Perhaps this journey of Sandi’s will inspire others to take this same route, including yourself. Her take on it is exactly that, HER take. Please let us all know when you have your blog online and are sharing what it is you would like to write about along Route 66. Or maybe you’d like to share your writings of trips you have taken in other countries. Where can we find your website and blog and therefore read what you have to say? Come on, be a man and not some wimp hiding behind a posted anonymous name.
October 29th, 2009 at 12:28 pm
Sandi, NotCanuck is way off – I request you ignore that post. Please do not buy into a word of that as serious feedback or dialogue – it is not valid even in part. Anything that is peppered with personal insults as that is tells me all I need to know about that person.
October 29th, 2009 at 12:32 pm
So many goodies in this post, I don’t know where to start! I’m still smiling about your Maritime reunion in Vegas – what a hoot! And that view is very moving, I can see why you wanted to linger. I will be sad to see your trip end, too – I look forward to each post, the photos and tales of your adventures and misadventures. Have you got a route back figured out?
October 29th, 2009 at 3:44 pm
dear notcanuck,
it’s a personal blog. piss off. xoxo
love,
rebecca
October 29th, 2009 at 4:26 pm
Hi, Sandi. I’m close to Santa Monica and would love to take you to La Ballona Wetlands and/or to breakfast, lunch or dinner. Let me know. 310-850-1272
October 29th, 2009 at 5:48 pm
What a trip Sandi!
Where are we going Next?
Steve
October 29th, 2009 at 7:34 pm
Paul responded to NotCanuck much more eloquently than I could. But Paul is absolutely correct. Thank you for sharing this amazing journey with everyone.
October 29th, 2009 at 10:58 pm
Take NotCanuck as a good sign, Sandi! The more well known you become, the more original your take, the more inspiring you become, the most violently you will be opposed. Einstein spoke of a very similar concept. Just don’t dwell on it. You should be thinking and responding to posts like those of Steve and Brett. These people get you and deserve your attention.
October 29th, 2009 at 11:01 pm
By the way, Sandi, how about a Cafe 1923 show of your Route 66 non-infrared images (save the infrareds for a bigger venue)?
October 30th, 2009 at 5:56 am
Thanks all. I find it interesting that the Canadians were telling me I wasn’t coming across Canadian enough, then this guy telling me about my smug Canadian attitude. I just can’t win! (and to list “NotCanuck” as an actual email address? dude must really have a hate-on for us)
Chris = YES, great idea on the show.
Steve = trying to figure that out! still lots to say about this trip, though, so I’m going to keep it up for now…
Brett = I did not notice the license plate, no… what was up with it? And my god, yeah – some really cool stuff before San Bernardino! Did you stop at the bottle forest thing??? WOW.
Jane Anne = thanks! I’m going to email you.
October 30th, 2009 at 8:26 am
it was a wisconsin license palte … that’s all … lol … i drove all the way cross country to see a c66l truck with a wisco plate …
we did stop at the bottle forest … and holy cow wow …
can’t wait to read more of your trip … you had away of putting into words what i was seeing and feeling on my trip … and again, so so so jealous that you spent as much time doing it … my 10 days seemed too short … still bummed i passed you without seeing you …
October 30th, 2009 at 10:19 am
Looking forward to hearing from you, Sandi: JaneAnneJ@mac.com
October 31st, 2009 at 8:47 pm
This journey ending saddens me as well. Please, please make it the foundation of a bigger journey…”live as if it is heaven on earth”. You said it yourself, you know where your heaven is. What do you feel when you are there? Never loose that feeling as you vision yourself there, no matter where you actually are. Do it daily. Do not wonder about how it will happen. Only think about that you are there, the future is now and how that makes you feel. Sleep it, eat it, drink it and it will be yours…sooner and easier than you ever imagined or dared to imagine.
November 1st, 2009 at 1:17 pm
Sandi,
I got to hear your interview on Channel 12 in Phoenix….thats how I hooked up to follow your journey. I’ve looked up your previous blogs to catch up on what you’ve done and seen. Truly awesome pics, and quite the adventure. I hope you have a safe journey home.
November 5th, 2009 at 1:19 pm
You didn’t just visit Vegas, you visited the home of kitsch – The Peppermill! And you met two of the most amazing people I know, my dear friends Nicole & Dave. Come back sometime. I’d love to meet you myself.
One of the things you’ve learned, and probalby didn’t think of before, is that writing about Route 66 is just as fraught with peril as writing about methods for barbecue or cooking chili. People get damned emotional about it!
Surely you aren’t going back to an “ordinary” job now.