Friday, October 23rd, 2009
the Painted Desert Trading Post
It’s impossible to drive all of the original Route 66, since some of it is under the interstate, some of it is impassable, and some of it just no longer exists. Also, there are many different alignments of the Route, so you sometimes have to choose which version to drive. I have to say that it’s been so tempting to take some of the rougher, more isolated stretches that aren’t part of the main tour (“Dirt 66” as it’s referred to in my guide) – especially since I have a Jeep, and could navigate through some parts that I wouldn’t if I had a car! Alas, the trailer won’t take it and I just don’t have the time to unhitch and rehitch and all of that… I made an exception the other day though, for the Painted Desert Trading Post.
crumbling interior of the trading post
I need to stop here and sing the praises of David Wickline. David is the creator of “Images of 66” (volumes 1 and 2), which is like a visual encyclopedia of Route 66. There are pictures of most noteworthy things you’ll see along Route 66 in his books, as well as some historical notes. His books are quite comprehensive and have been invaluable during this journey, to help me plan what I want to see/shoot, and also to explain what it is I’m looking at in many cases. Truly, if you ever drive Route 66, be sure you buy at least his first volume, as well as the can’t-do-without Jerry McClanahan’s EZ 66 Guide for Travelers.
So using David’s books, I could look it up when my friend and fellow photographer/Route 66 lover Ben Willmore
looking through the window to the Jeep
told me I really should go see the old Painted Desert Trading Post. He said I should unhitch the trailer at the exit and drive in with the Jeep. The place looked really cool and very isolated – and according to Images of 66, it is a highly sought-after building for professional photographers doing the Route. How could I not go in??
Unhitching and rehitching was a pain, and I was concerned about leaving the triangle out there all by its lonesome right next to the interstate… no telling who might come along and take interest in the little thing. And I gotta tell ya, I almost somersault the Jeep the first time I brake after unhitching! I don’t realize how much harder I have to brake with the trailer on until I brake without it – yikes!
you can see how isolated this location is
But it was worth it, it was a fantastic side trip. I found myself thinking that I really want to do this trip again someday, with a four wheel drive vehicle like this, but without a trailer and with more flexibility in how I do the route. (The time lapse thing I am doing sort of dictates that I do the whole Route, as religiously as possible, and all in daylight hours. Not easy for a night owl such as myself.)
Ben had given me great directions, but once I got out there I was unsure, since 1) he uses miles, I use kilometers, and 2) there was more than one left turn off the main dirt road. Fortunately cell phones exist, so I called him for clarification as I bumped along the washboard road. What he could remember did help reassure me I was on the right path, and I did find it (thanks, Ben!). What an awesome location. It has been tagged a bit with graffiti, but not to a terrible extent – presumably because of its isolation. I hope people coming out here respect this site and leave it as is (take only pictures, leave only footprints, etc.).
old car used for erosion control - Dead River Bridge in background
According to David Wickline, the Painted Desert Trading Post was opened in 1940 by Joy Nevin and Dotch Windsor (Windsor, yay!), and was later abandoned in 1956. Beyond the building is Dead River Bridge, which was also part of the old Route 66 back in this time period. The most interesting thing about the bridge is the empty shells of old cars that were used along the edge of the wash to control erosion. There is no water here now, but at one point there clearly was (and may still be, during flash floods I suppose). The bridge is heavily tagged on its underside pillars, but its top surface is relatively pristine, with a “Route 66” shield stenciled on the end.
Route 66 shield stenciled on Dead River Bridge
My mother probably wouldn’t have appreciated seeing me drive out to the middle of the desert on a dirt road by myself like this… nor would Peggy Burner… it’s all good, moms! I was never that far from the interstate, and I had lots of water and food in the Jeep! 
Can’t wait to develop the infrared shots from this location…
Tags: David Wiclkline, dead river, dirt road, Images of 66, jeep, Navigation, trading post
October 23rd, 2009 at 2:22 pm
lol … i see my footprints in the dead river …
i too shot IR here … but the convenience of digital IR …
October 23rd, 2009 at 2:25 pm
that’s cheating!!
October 23rd, 2009 at 3:32 pm
Oh, man. So sad . . . and yet so cool. Especially the “Dead River” bridge shots. I bet the ghosts of days gone by abound there in the Painted Desert. Just looking at the shots makes my imagination run wild. Thanks!
October 23rd, 2009 at 3:48 pm
Funny, but I thought at first glance that the “Route 66″ stencil was a weird super close-up of a tattoo!
You should get that tattoo at the end of all of this, Sandi! I dare ya!
October 23rd, 2009 at 3:59 pm
sandi, i love it all…..
October 23rd, 2009 at 4:15 pm
Man, that sure does look isolated…like, even the snakes and coyotes don’t hang there! Love the surreal (hyper-real?) colors in the car erosion shot. All your photos here are neat. Can’t wait to see the IR ones, too!
October 23rd, 2009 at 5:04 pm
Did you see the building in the distance beyond the bridge… I’ve never made the trek to it. I think it’s an old house maybe 1/2 mile beyond the bridge.
Not sure if I’ll be visiting that spot on this trip down Route 66… do you think the road would be good for a 1963 Bus?
-Ben
October 23rd, 2009 at 6:43 pm
Another great Jeep trip would be east of Flagstaff along the 1926-32 alignment of Route 66 to the Padre Canyon bridge. It doesn’t require a Jeep, but the trailer wouldn’t like the trip! See: http://www6.nau.edu/library/scadb/imagedisplay.cfm?item_num=44555&control_num=13162&type=Image .
Happy travels-
October 23rd, 2009 at 7:53 pm
I thought it was a close up of a tatoo at first too. Someone in dire need of exfoliating and moisturizing though.
October 23rd, 2009 at 10:56 pm
Sandi, one word – “Stunning”. All the photos are absolutly stunning. The dead river car seems so compeling to me. In the kingdom of the sand so hot and dry there are no footprints and time is always passing by.
Hope the radiator cap on the Jeep is still holding out
October 24th, 2009 at 12:10 am
“someone in dire need of exfoliating and moisturizing” – yep, that would be me, after this trip… tattoo, eh? I don’t have any and never wanted one – but after this trip, your challenge actually made me pause, Caroline.
October 24th, 2009 at 12:14 am
Ben: good for the new/old bus? No. Impossible? No. I did see that house, yeah – wondered what it was all about – but ran out of time and light and had to rush back. I know you’re an IPA guy – have you had Full Sail IPA out of Oregon yet? Yum!
October 24th, 2009 at 1:26 am
I have a tattoo of my 2 favorite things, Garfield the cat holding a pole with a 66 shield on top of it
October 24th, 2009 at 6:58 am
The idea of a Route 66 tattoo made you pause? Maintain that pause!!! As usual, your photos are wonderful and full of feeling. I like the coloured ones as well as the infra red I am used to.
October 24th, 2009 at 8:07 am
What a goldmine for images! Love the cold reflected light of the cloudless sky on the shadow side of the trading post in the top pic.
Some of those shots are calling out for HDR and timelapse treatments. Timelapse of the sun rising and the light tracking though the trading post…oooohhhhhhh…Hope you’ve got lots of supplies as you’ll be there for a week doing all of that.
Great post Sandi!
October 24th, 2009 at 8:28 am
Hi Sandi…. we met in Hatch several months ago. I have been following your journey. You are one brave woman! I wanted to ask, are you processing your film on the road? Are you shooting digital and then posting those to your blog? The photos are gorgeous! I am envious
October 24th, 2009 at 8:49 am
Good for you to brave it and go out there, Sandi. I would have been too intimidated, for countless reasons.
October 24th, 2009 at 11:47 am
I love how the land patiently inexorably reclaims these buildings and places with “history”, the trading post and the truck are literally sinking into the scrub / sand…very cool. They make me imagine all the comings, goings, drama, and adventure some of these places have seen. I hope after days like this you wash away all thoughts of regret/concern for coming on this trip. I envy you Sandi, you are on a true adventure! keep safe!
October 24th, 2009 at 12:52 pm
Hi Sandi, I love those photos. I will be heading up to Williams tomorrow but you will be long gone. Stay safe and your doing a beautiful job. Just keep those nasty snakes in mind. I don’t know if it is cold enough for them to be gone for the winter.
October 24th, 2009 at 4:10 pm
I second Caroline’s suggestion about the tatoo
Actually I am against inkin the body but maybe just a body (your body) painting session photographed in infra red.
October 24th, 2009 at 10:04 pm
Kathy – oh yes, I remember you! Glad you’re following along. I am not processing film on the road, no. I am only sharing the digital stuff I take, and it’s relatively unprocessed as well. Just some quick basic edits. I’ll do all the processing in the darkroom once I get home.
October 25th, 2009 at 1:04 am
Paul, you HAD to say that, didn’t you… now I need to go back!!!
October 25th, 2009 at 10:12 pm
Thank God for cell phones and blogs, so we all know you’re OK! Keep on keepin’ on. You’re getting closer… and doing a great job!
With all the memories you’re making in that Aliner and Jeep, I’m thinking how hard it will be someday for you to get rid of them…
October 27th, 2009 at 6:19 pm
Fricken Gorgeous