Monday, October 19th, 2009
This is me at work the other night:
is this the best office ever, or what?
I am really liking this camping on BLM land thing. El Malpais National Monument was a few miles off the Route but it was well worth the drive. Primitive camping, but then again so is Walmart – and which would you rather have? Besides, Walmart wouldn’t allow me to set up my Campfire in a Can and sit outside like this. I didn’t have much of a wifi or phone signal, but I was able to spend time weeding out photos next to the fire and under the stars. It made me think about Technomadia, Cherie and Chris, who live full-time in their trailer and whose office is virtually anywhere they want it to be. I totally get why they gave up their homes and live full-time on the road. The best part is, they have their partner with them! They get to be together AND travel all the time. And amazingly, they’re still in love! It’s perfect.
About finding campsites: I’m finding it’s taking me a fair amount of online time to locate good places to park/camp, so my advice to you, if you ever do this trip, is to research all of the camping areas near Route 66 before you leave. Have a list, and then you can just pick and choose from the list depending on how far you get each day.
outlook over sandstone bluffs and black lava on the valley floor
Near that campsite was this overlook where you could see gorgeous sandstone cliffs and a wide expanse of the miles of bumpy, black lava flows that give this part of New Mexico its name: “El Malpais” means “the badlands”. I know there is a lot more to this area that I would love to explore, but this is not a nature trip, this is about Route 66.
That said, New Mexico has pretty much been about the nature for me. I’ve encountered the least connection with people here than any other state so far, but I’ve been totally struck by the natural beauty of the place. I’ve also had the least amount of media attention here. It’s interesting to me that the state with the most sweeping, beautiful vistas so far is the one where I’ve met the least amount of people. It’s OK with me because this is the sort of place where I’d want to go to “get away” and just be in natural beauty anyway… so perhaps I’m generating this isolation myself and just don’t realize it. This definitely feels different from the previous states, though. They said when I left Oklahoma, “get ready for a whole lot of nothing”. Maybe this is what they meant – but it sure is a gorgeous lot of nothing.
typical gorgeous view to the north of Route 66 in northwest New Mexico
Last night I ended up in Gallup, NM before it got a bit dark for the time-lapse, yet there was still some light left in the sky. A blog reader who used to live in this area had recommended a side trip to Window Rock, AZ. The town’s namesake is a gorgeous red rock formation that I wanted to photograph – plus it is the seat of government for the Navajo Nation, which I think is interesting and cool. It was less than an hour away so I thought I’d shoot up there and then back to Gallup later on, after dark.
sunrise over Navajoland
Alas, it got dark before I arrived so I decided to park there and photograph the rocks today, then head back to pick up the Route in Gallup. Snag: no campgrounds, no WalMarts, no truck stops anywhere around here. I was about to drive back to Gallup defeated, when I thought: may as well ask someone at one of the motels here; maybe they know something or will offer up a spot. Sure enough, the nice lady behind the counter at the Navajoland Inn & Suites hotel said I could park in the lot next to their Denny’s, as that’s where their trucks park sometimes. There’s another tip: just ask around, you might find something good. It was great being parked there – no one bothered me at all last night, and even though I was in a parking lot, look at what I woke up to:
There are a lot of reservations and pueblos in this part of the world, so one must be respectful and aware of proper etiquette when visiting native lands. I slipped off the Route the other day to get a look at the San Jose Mission in Laguna. It was built in 1699 and I thought it would be beautiful, even though I knew I wouldn’t be able to photograph it. The mission is on Laguna Pueblo Land, and taking photographs is prohibited (unless you have permission, of course). I made sure to stop and read the sign heading into the town that listed the regulations. I did drive a few streets in, but alas, I couldn’t get close to the mission: there was a sign in the middle of the street saying “Town is closed to all non-Indians for religious activities”. I don’t know what the activities were or what significant date it might be, so if anyone reading this out there knows, please share. I’m curious.
why is the word "Indian" not painted?
I’m also curious, and rather confused, about naming here. I thought that the use of “Indian” was inappropriate, so I always use “Native American”. But I’m seeing the term “Indian” all over the place here, as in the above example. I also saw this odd sign for a church a couple of days ago. The word “Indian” was still carved into the church’s sign, but it wasn’t highlighted with paint like the rest of the name. I wondered whether that was because of the use of the term “Indian”, or whether it meant they’d had a split with the nearby population over something and no longer had the local Native Americans (or Indians?) come to their church anymore. I feel so darn uneducated in these matters… it bugs me. I need to learn more about this.
On a more frivolous note, can someone explain to me how my iPod can contain songs I don’t even know I have? Yesterday I hit that familiarity wall with my music collection – you know, like when you stare at your collection of CDs and can’t think of anything to listen to because you’ve looked at them in that configuration for so long, you can’t really see what you have anymore? That’s the wall I hit looking at the lists of albums in my iPod. So I went for the “shuffle all songs” option, which turns your iPod into a bizarre random DJ. The first song? That 70s one that goes “It’s too late, to turn back now… (I believe I believe I believe I’m falling in love…)”. Wtf? Where did THAT come from? I didn’t even know I had that song on there. Weird.
Tags: campfire in a can, el malpais, gallup, indian, ipod, navajo, new mexico, technomadia, window rock
October 19th, 2009 at 6:26 pm
That is the best office ever! Next time you’re in an area with a large-ish bookstore, try to find a campground guide. When I did my roadtrip, it was a must-have and was well-worn by the time we were done.
http://bit.ly/1axbSR or http://bit.ly/1OUtCt
I think I read somewhere that the Native Americans prefer Indian. But that was a while back and I can’t be certain. Let me know what you find out.
Shuffle is your friend if only for the completely weird stuff you’ll find and the bizarre juxtapositions of audio selections. Have fun!!
October 19th, 2009 at 6:40 pm
Oh I’m having major “office envy” over your wonderful spot with the campfire (and my office has a nice view of Lake Erie) What a beautiful place you stopped. Also, you deserve kudos for your sensitivity about terms for the local aborliginal people. My guess is that the term “Indian” is sort of like the N-word – inappropriate depending on who’s using it. I like the Canadian term First Nations, but I don’t think they use it in the States. And I always wanted to see Window Rock; I know they have a big annual pow wow there. Funny you should mention the iPod mystery. Just today I deleted a couple of songs in my uTunes library that I didn’t put there or purchase. Spooky!
October 19th, 2009 at 7:54 pm
Jumpin’ jesus, Wheat. How jealous am *I*!!!?? Absolutely gorgeous.
When are you coming home!?
October 19th, 2009 at 8:23 pm
Call me a Luddite, but when I road trip and camp, I just use my atlas. Campsites are all listed on there and I don’t need wifi to read it. Seriously, it makes life much easier.
October 19th, 2009 at 8:26 pm
Well, you clearly have my view of the Windsor casino beat. Amazing pictures Sandi.
October 19th, 2009 at 8:27 pm
I spending about 20 years living in NM next to an Indian reservation. I have never heard of the word “Indian” disrespectful. and certainly not like the “N” word which is disgusting.
Lots of BLM land in front of you and I totally disagree with who ever said once you get past OK get ready for a whole lot of nothing. We enjoyed all of Route 66 but the 3 most western states the most.
Rojo
October 19th, 2009 at 8:39 pm
Oh come on Kelley – the Windsor Casino is a damn fine piece of architecture!
I have to admit: this sort of work is way more what I’d like to spend my time doing.
I also have to admit: money is important in order to survive, so the GM job was sweet, and in that way I definitely miss it, and you may want to count your blessings! Jury is out in terms of whether or not I can find a way to turn this into a job. God I hope so. …on that note, does anyone know any publishers? Is there a book here?
Chris: DUH I can’t believe I didn’t think of that. I’ve been spending all my time looking at boondocking sites. (although atlases don’t list prices, and that is definitely an issue for me, as I am trying to park for free as much as possible.) On the topic, I just found a truck stop in a gorgeous setting that only charges $5 for a shower! Yippee! Independent truck stops rock!
Sheryl: another good low-tech idea! Again: duh! Never occurred to me to get one of those. So silly… I have all of these Route 66 guides but no camping guide!
Lindsay: I set myself a date: Oct.30 to be done the trip, in LA. Then, getting back is another matter… what in the heck am I going to do once this trip is over?? And what are you all going to read??? I gotta find a way to just keep doing this…
Deborah: I think you’re right, I think it depends on where you are and who is saying it. I remember speaking to a guy in Houston and said something about “black guys” and he paused and said, “actually, we prefer African American”. This was, of course, after my colleagues in Detroit had stripped me of using that term (which I had been using) in favor of “black”. So, I think it’s regional. Same goes for Latino and Hispanic, I believe. (See, I was watching those diversity broadcasts at GM!)
October 19th, 2009 at 8:41 pm
Rojo: yeah, I totally think this is a Canadian thing. We don’t say Indian up there. Come to think of it, this reminds me of the word “retarded”. We definitely don’t use that in Canada either, yet I watched some public broadcasting thing in support of the mentally handicapped from somewhere in the southern states, and the host kept saying “mentally retarded”. I cringed every time he said it, yet for that region and organization, it was totally the appropriate term. Interesting, isn’t it?
October 19th, 2009 at 9:06 pm
Why, thanks for the shout out, Sandi
Arizona and New Mexico are full of beauty.. but not many people. We had a similar experience there earlier this year following 66 through. But amazing scenery!!
As far as using an Atlas or map.. they’re hit or miss on being comprehensive. The best campgrounds we’ve found aren’t always on the maps – as they don’t cover all BLM, National Forest, ACOE, etc. campgrounds – and they definitely don’t cover dispersed camping opportunities. They’re useful sometimes, but unfortunately I’ve yet to find one singular resource to find all types of camping. Well, at least not one I can take with us!
Here’s a listing of most of the resources we use to find amazing camping: http://www.technomadia.com/resources/how-to-hunt-for-camping/
But honestly, nomadic serendipity tends to work best. Either discovering something on our own or a hint from a local.
– Cherie
October 19th, 2009 at 10:07 pm
So glad you got to Window Rock. Hope the photo ops were good. Red sky at morning and all that. Don’t you find the blue NM sky almost unreal?
It’s probably too late now, but did you continue on to Ganado http://www.stateparks.com/hubbell_trading_post.html after Window Rock? There’s an old trading post there that’s a National Monument. Lots of history, architecture, beautiful Indian art.
And from Ganado you could go up to Chinle and Canyon de Chelly http://www.nps.gov/cach/photosmultimedia/index.htm , which I think is more beautiful than the Grand Canyon. I once got caught in a flash flood in the dry wash in the canyon. Spider Rock is incredibly photogenic.
During our time on the res, the native people were called Navajo, but call themselves Dine (sounds like dih-NEH). I worked with an Indian in Michigan and she called herself and other native people Indian. Maybe it’s a joke on the Europeans cuz we were too dumb not to know we had bumped into another continent on our way to India!
October 19th, 2009 at 10:23 pm
Sharon: no, I felt guilty enough taking the time to go just to Window Rock! But I have ALWAYS wanted to see Canyon de Chelly. Some day! There is so much beauty in Navajo land, it makes me want to weep. I have been wondering about Dine – does Dine only mean Navajo? Or other tribes as well?
October 20th, 2009 at 12:59 am
Sandi,
I have been to Canyon de Shelly and it was awesome,
hugs and safe travels
October 20th, 2009 at 4:39 am
when i was in the arctic, there were many places where the local folk still referred to themselves as Eskimo. Growing up I was always told this was very un-P.C. They didn’t seem to mind though.
Also, it’s still called the NAACP. National Association of “Coloured” people. Who would dare use that word today? And yet there it is… proudly used to this day.
So it could just be so ingrained in their vernacular, that they’ve come to terms with it?
October 20th, 2009 at 8:25 am
Naming names
“Members of the Nation are often known as Navajo but traditionally call themselves Diné (sometimes spelled in English as Dineh) which means “Navajo, people, or human” in Navajo.”
“Many Europeans would ask another tribe what the tribe “over there” was called. They would then convert the word into a European word (French, English, etc) Example: Sioux actually an abbreviation of Nadouessioux which was derived from a French-Canadian word Nadoüessioüak, which is comes from an Odawa (or Ottawa word), because the French asked the “Ottawa” who the “Sioux” were. The Sioux did not call themselves “Sioux” and neither did anyone else, until the French came along.”
“This might come as surprise to some of you, but “Indians” is not considered a derogatory term to American Indians. I know, I’m a tribal member, and work for a tribal organization, and hear it used all the time, along with Native Americans and American Indians.”
October 20th, 2009 at 9:27 am
all you need 4 nice walls and a window and you would be set
*Joke*
October 20th, 2009 at 10:03 am
New Mexico, in its naturalness, is indeed beautiful. What I prefer when traveling is the expanse of nature scenes. I’m also drawn to indigenous culture. If intruding cultures had learned indigenous ways instead of destroying them, we would not be in the mess we are in today.
October 20th, 2009 at 11:14 am
Hi Sandi – of course you have a book there; and you also know a publisher.
We’ll talk when you get back.
Laurie
October 20th, 2009 at 12:41 pm
I don’t know whether you can travel and earn a living (save for being a trucker or something like that), especially in the current economic climate. I’m not saying it’s impossible, especially with someone of your considerable talents. But you also have to consider whether you actually want to live out of your suitcase.
When my wife and I did our first Route 66 trip, it did change our lives and made us want to actually live somewhere on the road further west than where we resided. We narrowed down a Route 66 town or two that we liked, and proceeded to look for jobs in that city. Five years later, we’re still in Tulsa, and haven’t regretted it.
October 20th, 2009 at 12:45 pm
Also, I live in what for many years was called Indian Territory. Oklahoma contains nearly 40 federally recognized tribes, and I’ve met a lot of people with that ancestry. Not a one I’ve ever known objects to “Indian.” It’s a nice, short, easily understood description.
That’s my take … whatever it’s worth.
October 20th, 2009 at 2:06 pm
This whole Indian topic is so interesting to me, thanks all for your input. I still believe it’s regional – Sharon, thanks for the enlightenment, really interesting!
Cherie: as always, great info!
Ron: according to some “technomadic” online friends of mine, there are ways to make a living on the road – but clearly they are information/technology related (i.e., something that can be done on a computer). I suppose if one were to get paid to write, that is also a possibility – again, unlikely, but not impossible… I am wondering of some sort of hybrid situation, where there is a home base, but a modest one, then some contractual/freelance work that enables more time to roam, but not 100% of the time. I’ll figure it out, eventually!
Also, Ron – thanks for posting my Texas sunset time-lapse on your site. I’ll post it here too.
Laurie: sweet, thanks!!
October 20th, 2009 at 3:31 pm
Gorgeous pix Sandi…. my favourite part of the southern US.
THIS JUST IN…. An article on your travels in the Windsor Star today:
http://www2.canada.com/windsorstar/news/story.html?id=3f7e208c-5bcf-4c6d-b359-86922621b76e
October 20th, 2009 at 4:01 pm
I really want to be there!!
October 20th, 2009 at 5:03 pm
best brag ever
October 22nd, 2009 at 10:57 am
“Well I’m standin’ on a corner
in Winslow, Arizona
and such a fine sight to see…”
(Take it Easy – The Eagles)
It occurs to me that there probably is an entire soundtrack to this trip. For instance, after checking your map the other day, I couldn’t get “Point Me in the Direction of Albequerque” out of my head. (Yes. The Partridge Family. Is that a problem?!)
October 26th, 2009 at 3:13 pm
WOW!!! I am still catching up, but just….WOW!!! Envy, Pride, Wonderment, Joy for you. Your trip has certainly stirred my emotions. Love what you are doing with the right side of the blog. Man, if there is any way you could make some of these shots for sale now, it would really be cool. It is getting close to Christmas shopping time.
November 9th, 2009 at 12:09 am
Very nice meeting you. I have looked your blog over you work is amazing. If you need a place to park your rig. Iam up in decker canyon the view is to die for . It is nice to see someone living their dream .Best regards Jeff
November 9th, 2009 at 12:37 pm
Waiting for some news and pictures from the Salton Sea!