Saturday, October 10th, 2009
Ice. Not in my drink, on my Aliner. And I am in Texas. W.. T.. F… I ask you…??! It’s going to be below zero tonight and they’re calling for a mix of ice and snowy rain. Charming, especially for a Canadian who came south expecting sunny skies and shorts weather.

Big Cow advertising the Big Texan's famous challenge
Fortunately I have the fuel in me to keep warm. I am in Amarillo, Texas – and you know what that means: the Big Texan Steak Ranch. Everyone knows that everything is big in Texas, including the steaks… but: 72 ounces? Yes, Amarillo, TX is the home of the free 72 oz steak dinner – if eaten in under an hour. While I was there, I got to witness three men do it. And none of them threw up.

the 72 oz steak dinner, free if eaten in under an hour
OK, time for the back story on this… R. J. “Bob” Lee opened the Big Texan Steak Ranch on Route 66 in 1960, and the place continues to be a major culinary stop along the Route, even though it’s no longer actually on Route 66. There’s a sound reason for its notoriety: free (good!) food. History has it – and I quote from my plastic water cup – “that a table full of hungry cowboys competed for Big Texan bragging rights by eating 1-pound steaks over a 1 hour period of time. When the hour ended, 1 cowboy had eaten four and a half 1-pound steaks (72 oz), shrimp cocktail, salad, baked potato and bread. Lee grinned and vowed from that day forward the dinner would be FREE to anyone who could eat it in 1 hour.” What if you can’t get through it in that time? That’ll be a buck an ounce, please and thank you.
Even if you’re not hungry or not a meat eater… aren’t you curious? It’s worth stopping in just to see the display of food that need be consumed to meet this challenge. The steak itself looks to be the size of both my lungs. And you’ve gotta plow through a salad, baked potato, three fried shrimp and a dinner roll to boot. The meal is all laid out on display when you walk in the lobby – and its eaters are on display when you walk into the restaurant. Anyone attempting “the steak” sits on a raised, spot lit table for all to ogle as they chew and chew and chew and chew… all the while with a countdown clock ticking away the hour at the head of the table.

eight attempts at "the steak" from DIFS members
When I arrived, eight men from the Dallas Institute of Funeral Service were working through the meal. Two made it. I asked a woman in their group whether it was some fundraising challenge or something. She replied, “Nope! We just thought we’d come up from Dallas and see if we could get ‘er done.” I am growing very fond of these sorts of southern responses. For example, when I asked one of the entertainers who serenaded me tableside with “Down the Road” how long he’d been doing this, he said: “Oh, since 6:30.” Which reminded me of Richard from the Lazy J RV Park in Missouri when he gave me a huge bag of mustard greens from his garden to try. How long should I boil them? “…(shrug)… ‘til they’re done.”
But I digress. Here are some stats for you:
Most eaten: in 1963, a pro wrestler named Klondike Bill got through not one but two of the 72 oz steaks in the hour time limit.
Oldest to do it: a 69-year-old grandmother. (Youngest? 11-year-old boy.)
And the fastest time was 8 minutes 52 seconds, by World Hot Dog Eating Champ Joey Chestnut.
Apparently anywhere from 1-20 people try it every day. The success rate average is about 1 in 6.

a lone challenger begins - he finished the dinner with 3:03 remaining
They moved the restaurant next to I-40 back in 1970, when Route 66 was bypassed by the interstate system in this area. It was either that, or suffer “death by interstate” (to quote Michael Wallis, author of Route 66: The Mother Road).

Big Texan manager Mike Magill and the free long-horned shuttle limo
But they’ve not only survived, they’re flourishing. Good customer service and smart offerings ensure loyalty: they provide free shuttle service to and from any hotel in the city (in a limo adorned with long horns on the hood, no less), have a “Dawgy Corral” for dogs, and a “Horse Hotel” for those traveling with horses. Oh, and there’s a western-themed hotel for humans too – with a Texas-shaped pool and saloon-styled doors leading to the bathrooms.
The Big Texan does a lot right, but the steak is where they shine. They dry age their own meat, and steaks are cut as close to cooking time as possible by the full-time meat cutter, to ensure freshness. I have to say that the 12 oz rib eye I had – the *smallest size* of that cut on the menu, by the way, three more sizes up from that – was divine. Served swimming in prime rib au jus sauce and smothered in fried onions, this was likely the most flavorful steak I have ever eaten. And it was cooked perfectly.

my 12 oz prime rib, in au jus w/onions
Now that I’ve peaked your appetite, let me ruin it. Barfing diners are an occupational hazard if you work here, or if you dine close to the stage table. According to manager Mike Magill, lost cookies is a common occurrence (you’ll see a waste bucket at the head of the table, opposite the countdown clock). He told me about a colleague who once had to go to the hotel next door to shower after being hit in the hair by someone who couldn’t keep the big steak down. And then there was the time five football players made their group attempt. When the hour was up, they rose in celebration and announced, “now for the encore” – and all puked on purpose. Guests ran for cover, ran for the washroom, ran outdoors… “yep, we had everyone in the bathroom, the parking lot was just full of people…” muses Mike. “It’s gross, but it’s funny too. You have to laugh.”


October 11th, 2009 at 12:42 am
If I ever try to travel Route 66, as a vegetarian I now know to pack food and get through Texas quickly. I have a feeling I wouldn’t have many eating options… or be treated too well, especially in my longhorn-less hybrid!
It sounds like you are having a blast in these states so far, but I am anxious for you to get to New Mexico. Now there is a beautiful, wonderful place– the Land of Enchantment. And it is coming next!
October 11th, 2009 at 1:08 am
Don’t worry too much about the weather. You’re in the Panhandle, which means it’ll probably be sunny and 75 degrees tomorrow.
October 11th, 2009 at 6:22 am
This is a laugh out loud piece for me. Thanks, honey, for my morning delight in your writing. Reminds me of the time I asked a co-worker “how much is a bag of suger?” and she said “about 2 lbs.” You sure gave this place a good “review” and I hope they appreciate it. I’m sure anyone reading this will want to check them out. As I will be away from my computer for the next week, I will be checking you out as often as possible at access centers. Still with you every mile. Love you.
October 11th, 2009 at 7:33 am
Ought to stick a link to this place on the PETA website.
October 11th, 2009 at 8:19 am
I sure did have to laugh. Hilarious! Once again, wish I were there, but feel that I almost am with this latest post. I’d really love to see that for Big Cow for myself.
Hope the sun shines on you today, Sandi. It gotta sooner or later in those southern climes.
p.s. It snowed in Winnipeg yesterday and many vehicles crashed into one another. gah! And so it begins . . .
October 11th, 2009 at 11:24 am
I gained 2 pouinds just reading this blog! :-S God Bless Texas!
October 11th, 2009 at 1:39 pm
my feet are cold!
an addendum: Tattoo Man pointed out that it was supposed to be below freezing last night, not below zero – but I was using Canadian terms. (I’m surprised I did that because I normally use Fahrenheit since I’ve been working in Detroit for the past 10 years…) Zero degrees Celsius = 32 degrees Fahrenheit = freezing point. So, Ron and I were both right.
Just wanted to clarify.
October 11th, 2009 at 1:43 pm
I know exactly where you are! I remember seeing signs for the challenge on our drive back east. The Cadillac graveyard is close by and past that, as I recall, a massive cross in the ground–like 3 stories high!
I don’t think I gave enough consideration to the after-effects of trying a challenge that one might not be prepared to finish. Gross! so thanks for that.
Also, if the steak is so good, it’s a crime to eat it so fast. Hot dogs? Stuff away! But steak should be savoured.
October 11th, 2009 at 1:51 pm
Oooh, just reading this my tummy is having sympathetic pains for all those steak-stuffers. And if I ever go to this place, I’m going to sit as far away from the “splash zone” as possible!
October 11th, 2009 at 8:51 pm
I noted your Route 66 Yahoo group message about this blog then kind of forgot about it until I saw the post in Laurel’s blog about the Afton Station visit. Now I’m all caught up and enjoying every word and picture. The fun you’re having is apparent in your posts. Excellent telling of an excellent adventure.
October 11th, 2009 at 11:15 pm
Well slap my knee, adjust my cowboy hat and yank up my Drawers! Sandi Wheaton you are making me laugh so much!!! I missed the last 2 days because I have to work after hours at the store but I was thinking of you while I was working away getting the store all Christmas like. Yeah retail has to do it early.
I’m really enjoying the ride Sandi…and it is like we’re all there with you. It’s an adventure and we’re just honored that you’d take us with you.
Happy CANADIAN THANKSGIVING by the way!!! Any turkey in steak land?
October 11th, 2009 at 11:41 pm
Just watched the video clip that Galen Culver did on your journey. Awesome coverage and I’m not a bit surprised. I’m just tickled that the news stations are finding you as interesting as the rest of us are! This whole trip is more than just pictures (and not to downplay your evident talent and special eye for details) but it’s also historically an important piece of heritage that actually could be extremely important advertisement for the folks that run businesses on route 66.
October 12th, 2009 at 5:15 am
When I traveled 66 in Oct of 99, It was in October. When we arrived in the evening, I had a pair of shorts on and a T-shirt. It was balmy, there were Halloween decorations out.
We woke up to a BLINDING Snow storm. OMG. I still had to go out to the Cadillac Ranch. My friend got very cool photos of the snow swirling around the base of the cars.
IT WAS FREEZING!!!!!!!
If you are a vegetarion and would like to eat at The Big Texan. There is an appetizer called “Texas Caviar” It is a bunch of different beans served with taco chips.
I have a friend that works there. She intoroduced us to one of the daughters of Bobbie Lee. She was working as a waitress, bless her heart.
She related to us that the fastest that the steak was eaten was in about 11-20 seconds.
Are you kidding me? It turns out that The Circus came to town and they tossed one to the tigers!!!!! LOL
October 12th, 2009 at 7:32 am
hahaha thats funny!! no freakin way would i be able to even begin to eat a steak that big!!
October 12th, 2009 at 1:40 pm
monday: stay the route! you know where i’m goin’ with this
October 12th, 2009 at 5:00 pm
This is really, really cool. Scuze the pun. Hope the weather changes for the better for you. You should be picking up a lot of similie and metaphor while you are there as well…I don’t mean you should, I mean you probably will, have or did…you know. Bon chance little eagle or penquin.
October 13th, 2009 at 2:42 pm
I hope the little kids in third world countries don’t read this four and a half 1-pound steak one!
Anyway, it is cold cold cold cold cold cold cold cold cold cold cold cold cold cold cold cold cold cold cold cold cold cold cold cold cold cold cold cold cold cold cold cold cold cold cold cold cold cold cold cold cold cold cold cold cold cold cold cold cold cold cold cold cold cold cold cold cold cold cold cold cold cold cold cold cold cold cold cold cold cold cold cold cold cold cold cold cold cold cold cold cold cold cold cold cold cold cold cold cold cold in Ontario!
October 17th, 2009 at 9:23 am
So glad to see a post from Sandi this a.m., my grandson Michael’s 16th birthday. I’m glad to know the half-way point from Los Angeles to Chicago is 1139 miles. My connection with Hwy. 66 goes back to high school, when my dad brought me home from St. Louis to L.A. on Hwy. 66. He pit-crewed for friends at the Indianapolis 500 in 1959 before coming to see me graduate.
Even earlier in my life, I remember that my mom took Hwy. 66 when we drove our Pontiac to Pontiac, Michigan, to exchange it for a new Pontiac. That was financially feasible in those days.
All through Sandi’s post today I was thinking about ‘Cars,’ the movie. I hardly see any movies, but I saw ‘Cars’ with Michael, my grandson, and it was one of the best movies I have ever seen. I’m glad to hear they are making a sequel.
Late last night I got an email from Roger Jones. He’s at the Principia High School 50th reunion in St. Louis. I was supposed to go, but I canceled because my sister decided to get married last Saturday and wanted me to be her photographer. It was a small ceremony in Orange on horseback, and I could not say no to my sister.
Roger wrote to ask where I had reservations, because I would have been driving with my two dogs. He and his wife had their dog with them and were not allowed to stay at the Marriott where they had booked. I told him to go to the Marriott Residence Inn.
Fortunately, I did not leave last Sunday to drive the 2,000+ miles to St. Louis for the reunion. We had an unusual 30-hour rain here in West Los Angeles, and my foyer ceiling sprang a slow leak. It was probably 24 hours before I realized the entry rugs were wet. I shudder to think what would have happened to the hardwood floor had I made my 2-week road trip.
Nature has taught me how to make decisions. I go for what I want, but in the end, if something does not feel right, I change my mind. The thought of the pain in the neck, back and legs of driving to St. Louis from Los Angeles in five days dissuaded me from making the trip.
I also thought about how beautiful we all were 50 years ago and how we probably look now.
Roger will send me a CD from the reunion.
Maybe I will go next year, when I have more time.
Link available to the Odenaths’ Wedding on Horseback by request.
October 17th, 2009 at 12:56 pm
Jane Anne: sorry about the leak – you’re right, it’s a good thing you didn’t do the road trip. The right time will present itself. I love that “driving to Pontiac in a Pontiac to get another Pontiac!”
November 17th, 2009 at 10:47 am
I had a lot of fun there:
http://eatingtheroad.wordpress.com/2009/11/17/big-texan-steak-ranch/